Sorry for the delay in posting the draft for the sleeves.
Step 13: The sleeve I used in this dress is a set-in puff sleeve with fullness only at the hemline (no fullness at the capline). You may need a basic sleeve pattern to understand the drafting of a puff sleeve.
Basic sleeve draft:
A to E = E to B = 1/8 chest + 2.5 inches
Draw a vertical line from E which meets the line CD at point F such that C to F = F to D = 1/8 chest + 2.5 inches
A to H = B to G = 1/8 chest
S to F = F to T = half sleeve round at hemline + 0.5 inch for ease
E to I = E to M = 1 inch
Sleeve front:
Join G and I.
G to K = 1.5 inches
Join K and I.
J is the midpoint of GI. Mark L 0.5 inch from J.
Shape the front armhole GLE as shown in the figure.
Sleeve back:
Join H and M.
N is the midpoint of HM.
P is the midpoint of HN.
O is the midpoint of NM.
Mark Q 0.5 inch from N and mark R 0.5 inch from O.
Shape the back armhole HPQRM as shown in the figure.
L and N will be your front and back notches.
Your basic sleeve pattern will look like this once cut out:
Add seam allowances on all the sides---0.25 inch at the sleeve cap, 0.5 inch on the sides, and 1.5 inches at the hemline to fold and hem.
Pattern draft for puff sleeve with fullness at hemline:
Make the following changes to the basic sleeve draft without seam allowances.
Extend the center line from F. Mark X 2 inches from C.
Mark U and V 0.75 inch from S and T, respectively.
Draw lines from X on both sides that pass through U and V. Refer to the figure.
Mark Y and Z 2 inches (you can increase this measure according to the fullness you require) from U and V, respectively.
Draw lines from H and G that pass through Y and Z, respectively.
Measure the distance from H to U as well as from G to V.
Use this measure to mark I and J.
Connect IXJ using a curved line.
This is how your puffed sleeve will look like:
Add seam allowances on all the sides---0.25 inch at the sleeve cap, 0.5 inch on the sides, and 0.25 inch at the hemline if you attach a sleeve band, 1 inch otherwise to fold and hem.
There is also another method called "slash and spread," which I will discuss in a later post.
Sleeve band:
A to B = C to D = Sleeve round + 1 inch ease + 1 inch for seam allowance on the sides.
A to C = B to D = width of the band = 1.5 inches (with 0.25-inch seam and hem allowances included. You can increase or decrease the width of the band, but it should not be less than 0.75 inch.)
Draft for Bow:
Ribbon:
Bow center piece:
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