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Thursday, January 26, 2012

Pattern Draft---Empire Waist Dress Sleeves and Bow

Sorry for the delay in posting the draft for the sleeves.

Step 13: The sleeve I used in this dress is a set-in puff sleeve with fullness only at the hemline (no fullness at the capline). You may need a basic sleeve pattern to understand the drafting of a puff sleeve.

Basic sleeve draft:

A to E = E to B = 1/8 chest + 2.5 inches

Draw a vertical line from E which meets the line CD at point F such that C to F = F to D =  1/8 chest + 2.5 inches

A to H = B to G = 1/8 chest

S to F = F to T = half sleeve round at hemline + 0.5 inch for ease

E to I = E to M = 1 inch

Sleeve front:

Join G and I.

G to K = 1.5 inches

Join K and I.

J is the midpoint of GI. Mark L 0.5 inch from J.

Shape the front armhole GLE as shown in the figure.

Sleeve back:

Join H and M.

N is the midpoint of HM.

P is the midpoint of HN.

O is the midpoint of NM.

Mark Q 0.5 inch from N and mark R 0.5 inch from O.

Shape the back armhole HPQRM as shown in the figure.

L and N will be your front and back notches.

Your basic sleeve pattern will look like this once cut out:

Add seam allowances on all the sides---0.25 inch at the sleeve cap, 0.5 inch on the sides, and 1.5 inches at the hemline to fold and hem.

Pattern draft for puff sleeve with fullness at hemline:

Make the following changes to the basic sleeve draft without seam allowances.



Extend the center line from F. Mark X 2 inches from C.

Mark U and V 0.75 inch from S and T, respectively.

Draw lines from X on both sides that pass through U and V. Refer to the figure. 


Mark Y and Z 2 inches (you can increase this measure according to the fullness you require) from U and V, respectively.

Draw lines from H and G that pass through Y and Z, respectively.

Measure the distance from H to U as well as from G to V.

Use this measure to mark I and J.

Connect IXJ using a curved line.

This is how your puffed sleeve will look like:

Add seam allowances on all the sides---0.25 inch at the sleeve cap, 0.5 inch on the sides, and 0.25 inch at the hemline if you attach a sleeve band, 1 inch otherwise to fold and hem.


There is also another method called "slash and spread," which I will discuss in a later post.

Sleeve band:


A to B = C to D = Sleeve round + 1 inch ease + 1 inch for seam allowance on the sides.

A to C = B to D = width of the band = 1.5 inches (with 0.25-inch seam and hem allowances included. You can increase or decrease the width of the band, but it should not be less than 0.75 inch.)

Draft for Bow:

Ribbon:

Bow center piece:



Tuesday, January 17, 2012

Pattern Draft---Empire Waist Dress Back

Step 8:


The pattern draft for the front part of the dress is over. Now we will draft the pattern for the back.


All the points are marked as in the front draft except a few. A to F is the back neck depth which is as per your preference. I have marked it 1.5 inches.

Mark M 0.5 inch from L. Mark N 1 inch from I. Join G-M-N-I to shape the back armhole. Other measurements are same including the dart. Draw the empire line as you did for the front side.


Step 9:


Cut through the empire line to get the back bodice and skirt pieces.

Back Bodice:






The only change to the back bodice is to mark the new dart base point X and extend the dart legs to increase the dart intake to 0.50 inch (this will be 0.75 for persons above 14 years) as you did for the front.


Step 10:

Unfold the back bodice draft and cut through the center back to separate right and left back pieces. Draw the seam allowances. It is 0.5 inch on all the sides except for the neckline and for joining the button and buttonhole closures, for which a 0.25 inch seam allowance is required. Extend the dart legs as shown in the figure.



I joined the button and buttonhole closures separately. They are drafted as follows:

The left one is for button closure.

A to B = C to D = Center back length + 1.5 inch (1 inch for fold at the neckline and 0.5 inch for seam at the waistline.) 

A to C = B to D = 2.5 inches

The right one is for buttonhole closure.

E to F = G to H = Center back length + 1.5 inch (1 inch for fold at the neckline and 0.5 inch for seam at the waistline.)

E to G = F to H =  1.5 inches

Step 11:

Back skirt:


Extend the dart legs as you did for the front skirt. Mark X 1 inch from Q and draw a curved line connecting B and X.

Step 12:

Add seam allowances---0.5 inch for waist and sides and 1.25 inch for hemline fold.



Tomorrow I will show you how to draft the sleeves.

You can see how to draft the front here.

Monday, January 16, 2012

Pattern Draft---Empire Waist Dress With Overlapping Front Bodice

Here I show you how to draft the pattern for an empire waist dress with an overlapping bodice at the front, using a shift dress pattern (which has waist darts but no side darts).



Step 1:

Front pattern draft:



I have added a little flare to the basic shift dress pattern, down from the hip.

A to B = Full length
A to C = 1/8 chest + 2.5 inches
A to D = Waist length
A to E = Hip length
A to F = Neck depth (This is as per your wish. I have kept this lesser---1/8 chest minus 0.5 inch---because the neckline will become deeper than this measurement when you draft the overlapping bodices.)

Draw horizontal lines from A, F, C, D, E, and B, respectively.

C to G = 1/4 chest + 0.75 1-inch ease (the bust ease may change according to the stretchiness of the fabric you use, fabric shrinkage after wash, and the fit you like. I wanted to make a semi-fitted dress for my 2-year-old daughter, and the fabric I used was a cotton and polyester blend. Therefore, a 0.75 1-inch ease was fine for the dress I made.)

Read this useful article, Understanding Ease in Pattern Drafting by Anna to know more about ease.

A to H = 1/2 shoulder

H to I = 0.50 inch (for girls aged 0 to 14. For women, this could be 1 inch for fitted garments and 3/4 inch for loose or semi-fitted garments). However, you can change this according to the fit. Measure the shoulder length, that is the distance between the shoulder point at neck to the shoulder point at armhole. Use this measure to mark point J from I on the line from A.


Draw a line downward from H that meets the horizontal line from C at point K.

K to L = 1 inch
T = Half of I to L

Mark M 0.5 inch from T on the line drawn from F. Now shape the front armhole G-L-M-I.

D to N = 1/4 waist + 0.5 inch ease (Again, ease is determined by several factors. Please refer to bust ease above) + 0.25 inch dart width

E to O = 1/4 hip + 1.5 inches
B to P = 1/4 hip + 3 inches

Empire line:

The empire line crosses under the bust. Therefore measure from the side/base of the neck to a point under the bust. Use this measurement to mark point Q from A. Measure the distance between Q to D and use the same measurement to mark R on the seam line. Connect Q and R.

Darts:

Mark waist dart base point S which will be 1/12 chest + 0.5 inch from D. The dart length (upward and downward from D) is usually kept as 1/6 chest. Or you can measure from S up to a point 1 inch below the bust point and use the measure to mark the dart length down from S.

I have kept the dart intake (or dart width) for the basic shift dress as 0.25 inch. (I used this measure for my 2-year-old daughter. If this seems less for you, you can increase it according to your requirement. For women, dart intake may vary according to bust cup size. Also, if a side dart is marked, the waist dart intake will become less. The shift dress pattern for children up to 14 may not contain a side dart. Read this page to know more about darts. Generally, waist darts are not needed for children up to 6 years of age. But, since I wanted this dress to be a semi-fitted one for my 2-year-old, I thought using darts would be better.)

Step 2:

Now as you have made your basic front pattern, cut through the empire line to separate the bodice piece and the skirt piece.

Step 3:

Make the following changes to the bodice:

On the center front mark point T 1 inch from Q. Connect R and T using a curved line as in the figure below. This will be your new empire waistline.

Extend the dart fold line (that is the center line of the dart) such that it meets the new waistline R-T at point X. Extend the dart legs to change the dart intake to be 0.50 inch (this will be more for persons aged over 6). Discard the old waistline.




After you have made these changes, the front bodice will look like this:



Step 4:

Unfold the front bodice which will look like this:


Step 5:


Mark point A on the right side neck end of the shoulder. Mark another point B on the waist line (on the left side of the bodice) 3 inches from center front. I kept this 2 inches, which made the neck a little deeper. Connect the points using a curved line as shown in the figure below (shown by red line). This will be your new neckline.

You can also draw a straight line instead of a curvy line which will make the neck depth lesser than that shown here.



Step 6:


Cut the portion of the front bodice shown by the shaded area. This will be the right side of the front bodice.


Add 0.5 inch seam allowance for all the sides, except for the neckline for which you will need to include 0.25 seam allowance if you line it or use bias tape to cover the raw edge. Extend the dart legs as shown in the figure below.



Flip this and use when you cut out the left side of the front bodice. 


Step 6:

Skirt:

Now, let us concentrate on the skirt portion.

You need to make the following changes to the skirt:

Mark X 1 inch from Q on center front. Connect R and X using a curved line. This will be your new empire waist line on the skirt. Discard the old one.

Mark Y 1 inch from P on the seam. Connect B and Y using a curved line. This will be your new hemline. Discard the old one.

Extend the dart legs upward from the old waistline (N-D) to touch the new empire waistline such that the dart intake becomes 0.75 inch.

These changes are marked in red color in the figure below.



Step 7:

Add 0.5 inch seam allowance for waist and sides and 1.25 inches for hemline fold. Extend the dart legs upward.




That's it! We have drafted the front. Tomorrow I will post the steps to draft the pattern for the back of the dress.

Please feel free to post your queries and suggestions in the comment section under this post. I will be happy to read your comments.

I have posted the draft for the back of the dress here.