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Thursday, March 13, 2014

Tutorial---How to Draft and Sew an 8-Gore Flared Skirt

Recently, I made an 8-gore flared skirt for my darling daughter. Today I am excited to share the pattern drafting and sewing tutorial for this girly, twirly skirt.

How to draft:

I developed this pattern from the A-line skirt draft (blogged here).



The draft shows 1/4th of the entire skirt. Draw a line EF that divides the 1/4th skirt into two gore panels. Label them 1 and 2. Measure up from D at center front to a point where flare breaks out (example = 4 inches). DH = FI = CG. Draw a curvy line connecting points G, I, and H, which is parallel to the hemline.



Extend the hemline CFD on both sides. Let us add flare to gore panel 2. Measure out from D to width of flare (example 1.5 inches). Mark it K and connect with H. Repeat for the other side of the panel. Measure 1/8 inch (0.125 inch) from K and J and label them L and M, respectively. Join L and M. Trace panel 2 and add 1/4 inch seam allowances at the top and at the sides and add 3/4 inch hem allowance. Repeat this process for gore panel 1.




Now you have two flared gore panels.







Remember, these two panels are for the front right side. You will have to mirror these pieces to get the two panels for the front left side. And then use these four panels to cut panels for the back of the skirt.


How to sew:

Serge or zig-zag each gore panel before joining. Join the front four panels with a 1/4 inch seam. Open the seams and press well. Top stitch on both sides of the seams.


 
Repeat this for the back of the skirt. And join the front and back of the skirt.




Hem the bottom. Attach the waistband and feed elastic into it (tutorial here). And you are done.





After finishing the skirt, I realized I shouldn't have used a fabric with bold prints (you can see in the image that the patterns do not match at the seams). So when you make a skirt like this, better opt for solid colors or fabrics with small prints.

Bye for now! Have a nice day!

--- Flora